Wisconsin Yard and Garden Tips

By Sharon Morrisey, Consumer Horticulture Agent, Milwaukee County UW-Extension

Another option is to cut off the limbs and use them to cover planting beds where perennial flowers, strawberries, parsley, carrots, etc. are trying to survive the winter.

They also give added protection to screen sun and wind from broadleaf evergreens like boxwood, hollies, and rhododendrons.

Next spring when the Christmas tree limbs have lost their needles, use the bare stems to stake peas and vining vegetables or perennials like delphiniums and peonies that need a little extra support.

The Christmas tree trunk striped of its limbs can be used as a naturalistic bed edging or lay it at the back of a mulched perimeter planting bed allowing it to decompose naturally.

Bulbs in cold storage for forcing can be brought out now if they have had their proper chilling period. Small bulbs like crocus and hyacinth need 8 weeks and larger ones like tulip and daffodil need 12 - 14. If potted before storing, simply move them into a spot that is cool but very bright and begin watering. If stored cold but not potted, plant them in a well-drained medium that will also hold plenty of moisture and place them in a cool but bright location to begin growing.

Care of poinsettia, amaryllis and Christmas cactus after flowering calls for bright light, cooler temperatures and reduced watering. Start fertilizing now with a dilute, balanced fertilizer.

Trees and shrubs may need winter protection from damage by rodents, rabbits, and deer. Install small mesh hardware cloth, chicken wire or plastic trunk guards. Apply repellents to susceptible plants like young fruit trees and burning bush. Be certain to reapply repellents often since they wear off over time.

Use tree wrap on trunks of newly planted trees as well as those species with thin bark like linden, ash, mountain ash, and maple. This helps prevent frost cracking of the sun warmed bark (generally on the southwest side of the tree) when it freezes again rapidly after the sun sets on a winter day. Always wrap from the ground up so the overlap sheds water rather than collects it. Remove wrapping in spring.

Wait until really vigorous growth begins again in the spring to transplant potbound houseplants. Fertilize sparingly now and also water so that the water runs through the soil and out of the drainage holes. Do not allow plants to reabsorb this water since it contains salts and minerals that can be toxic when they are concentrated in the soil.

Start to grow seedlings inside now for varieties that are slow to germinate and require long growth periods to be ready for the garden in late May. These include impatiens, petunia, and begonia. Be forewarned, however, that supplemental lighting is an absolute necessity for successfully growing these seedlings indoors for such a long time. Use specially designed heat mats to provide bottom heat to produce really strong seedlings.

If you are getting antsy inside, do a tool inventory and cleaning. Hoes, shovels, and spades all need to be sharp to perform at their peak. Soak and scrub to remove dirt. Then coat with light oil to protect metal surfaces. Sand handles and apply boiled linseed oil. Use a splotch of brightly colored enamel spray paint to personalize them and make them easier to locate when left lying among the foliage. Padded grips can be added to cushion your hands.